Spantik Expedition (7,027 m)
The Spantik Expedition is a 28-day climb of Spantik (7,027 m), also called the Golden Peak, one of the most accessible 7,000 m peaks in the world, via the south-east ridge from the Chogolungma Glacier.
- Duration28 Days
- DifficultyHard
- Summit7,027 m
- Best SeasonJune – August
- Base Campapprox. 4,300 m
Your Step Up to 7,000 Metres
Spantik (7,027 m) sits between the Nagar Valley and Baltistan, above the Chogolungma Glacier. It is also known as the Golden Peak, after the golden granite pillar on its north-west face. Its normal route on the south-east ridge is a long snow climb with no major technical difficulties.
The Spantik Expedition starts in Skardu, drives through the Shigar Valley to Arandu and follows the Chogolungma Glacier to base camp. It is an ideal first 7,000 m peak and great preparation for climbers who plan to try an 8,000 m mountain later.
Trip Highlights
- Climb Spantik (7,027 m), the Golden Peak
- Normal route on the long south-east ridge
- Approach via Arandu and the Chogolungma Glacier
- Ideal preparation for a first 8,000 m peak
- Peak royalty, permit, liaison officer and briefings arranged by TGA
- Experienced climbing guide available on request
Itinerary
Day 1Arrive in Islamabad
Our team meets you at the airport and transfers you to your hotel. Gear check and welcome dinner.
Overnight: HotelDay 2–3Briefing and fly to Skardu
Expedition briefing in Islamabad, then fly to Skardu (or drive the Karakoram Highway if flights are cancelled).
Overnight: HotelDay 4Jeep to Arandu (approx. 2,800 m)
Drive through the Shigar and Basha valleys to Arandu, the last village. About 6 hours.
Overnight: CampDay 5–7Trek to Spantik Base Camp
Walk along the Chogolungma Glacier via Bolocho to base camp (approx. 4,300 m).
Overnight: CampDay 8–23Acclimatisation and summit push
Rotations to Camp 1 (approx. 5,100 m), Camp 2 (approx. 5,500 m) and Camp 3 (approx. 5,900 m) on the south-east ridge, then a summit attempt.
Overnight: CampDay 24Reserve day
An extra day for bad weather.
Overnight: CampDay 25–26Trek out and drive to Skardu
Walk back down the glacier to Arandu and drive to Skardu.
Overnight: HotelDay 27Fly to Islamabad
Flight to Islamabad and debriefing at the Ministry of Tourism. Celebration dinner.
Overnight: HotelDay 28Depart
Transfer to Islamabad International Airport for your flight home.
Overnight: —Expedition schedules depend on weather, snow conditions and acclimatisation. Summit decisions are always made with safety first.
What's Included
Included
- Airport pick-up and drop-off in Islamabad
- Hotels in Islamabad and Skardu
- Domestic flights Islamabad–Skardu–Islamabad, or road transport if flights are cancelled
- 4x4 jeeps Skardu–Arandu and back
- Peak royalty, climbing permit and liaison officer fees
- Base camp services: dining, kitchen, toilet and shower tents, cook and kitchen staff
- All meals on the approach trek and at base camp
- Porters to carry expedition and personal gear to base camp and back
- Experienced expedition manager and English-speaking guide on the approach
- Satellite phone at base camp for emergencies
- Letter of invitation (LOI) for your Pakistan visa
Not Included
- International flights to and from Pakistan
- Pakistan visa fee
- Rescue and high-altitude travel insurance (mandatory)
- Personal climbing gear and clothing
- Personal climbing guide (available on request)
- Summit bonus and tips for staff
- Extra nights or costs caused by flight cancellations, landslides or early return
- Anything not listed under "Included"
Moments from the Trail
Why Choose the Spantik Expedition?
The Spantik Expedition is one of the best ways to climb your first 7,000 m peak. The route is long but not very technical, the base camp is green and comfortable, and the expedition fits into four weeks.
It is a natural step after a 6,000 m peak such as Laila Peak, and a great preparation for Gasherbrum II or Broad Peak.
Before you travel, read our Pakistan visa guide and our advice on travel insurance; helicopter rescue cover is mandatory. Browse all our mountain expeditions in Pakistan.
Plan the rest of your trip
Good to Know
Experience
You should have climbed a 6,000 m peak and be comfortable with crampons, ice axe, glacier travel and fixed ropes.
Acclimatisation
We acclimatise with rotations to Camp 2 and Camp 3 before the summit attempt, with time built in for rest at base camp.
Permits & Royalty
Every expedition needs a climbing permit from the Gilgit-Baltistan government, a peak royalty fee and, for most peaks, a liaison officer. Our team handles the application, briefing and debriefing in Islamabad or Skardu.
When to Go
June to August is the Spantik climbing season, with the most stable weather usually in July. Read our guide to the best time to visit Pakistan.
Reserve Your Place on the Expedition
Tell us your experience, your plans and your preferred season, and our team will send you a full logistics package and quote for Spantik.
