Gasherbrum I Expedition (8,080 m)
The Gasherbrum I Expedition is a 55-day climb of Gasherbrum I (8,080 m), the Hidden Peak, the highest of the Gasherbrum group and the 11th-highest mountain on earth, from a base camp at the head of the Baltoro Glacier.
- Duration55 Days
- DifficultyVery hard
- Summit8,080 m
- Best SeasonJune – August
- Base Campapprox. 5,100 m
The Hidden Peak of the Karakoram
Gasherbrum I (8,080 m) is called the Hidden Peak because it cannot be seen from the Baltoro Glacier until you are almost at its foot. First climbed by an American team in 1958, it is the highest of the six Gasherbrum peaks and shares a base camp with Gasherbrum II.
The Gasherbrum I Expedition crosses the South Gasherbrum Glacier icefall to Camp 1 and follows the Japanese Couloir route to the summit. We arrange permits, the approach trek via Concordia, a full base camp team and support for your climb.
Trip Highlights
- Climb Gasherbrum I (8,080 m), the Hidden Peak
- Cross the Gasherbrum icefall and climb the Japanese Couloir
- Shared base camp with Gasherbrum II at about 5,100 m
- Approach trek via the Baltoro Glacier and Concordia
- Peak royalty, permit, liaison officer and briefings arranged by TGA
- High-altitude porters and oxygen available on request
Itinerary
Day 1Arrive in Islamabad
Our team meets you at the airport and transfers you to your hotel. Gear check and welcome dinner.
Overnight: HotelDay 2–3Briefing and fly to Skardu
Expedition briefing at the Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad, then fly to Skardu (or drive the Karakoram Highway in two days if flights are cancelled). Final shopping and packing.
Overnight: HotelDay 4Jeep to Askole (approx. 3,000 m)
About 7 hours by 4x4 jeep through the Shigar and Braldu valleys to Askole, the last village.
Overnight: CampDay 5–11Approach trek on the Baltoro Glacier
Trek via Jhola, Paiju, Urdukas, Goro II and Concordia, with a rest day at Paiju, to Gasherbrum Base Camp (approx. 5,100 m) on the Abruzzi Glacier.
Overnight: CampDay 12–14Settle in at base camp
Set up camp, hold the puja ceremony and prepare climbing gear.
Overnight: CampDay 15–47Acclimatisation and summit push
Rotations through the icefall to Camp 1 (approx. 5,900 m), Camp 2 (approx. 6,400 m) and Camp 3 (approx. 7,000 m), then a summit attempt via the Japanese Couloir.
Overnight: CampDay 48–50Reserve days
Extra days for bad weather or a second attempt.
Overnight: CampDay 51–52Clean up and trek out
Clear base camp and trek out via Concordia and the Gondogoro La or back down the Baltoro to Askole.
Overnight: CampDay 53–54Jeep to Skardu, fly to Islamabad
Drive to Skardu and fly to Islamabad for the debriefing at the Ministry of Tourism. Celebration dinner.
Overnight: HotelDay 55Depart
Transfer to Islamabad International Airport for your flight home.
Overnight: —Expedition schedules depend on weather, snow conditions and acclimatisation. Summit decisions are always made with safety first.
What's Included
Included
- Airport pick-up and drop-off in Islamabad
- Hotels in Islamabad and Skardu
- Domestic flights Islamabad–Skardu–Islamabad, or road transport if flights are cancelled
- 4x4 jeeps Skardu–Askole and back
- Peak royalty, climbing permit and liaison officer fees
- Base camp services: dining, kitchen, toilet and shower tents, cook and kitchen staff
- All meals on the approach trek and at base camp
- Porters to carry expedition and personal gear to base camp and back
- Experienced expedition manager and English-speaking guide on the approach
- Satellite phone at base camp for emergencies
- Letter of invitation (LOI) for your Pakistan visa
Not Included
- International flights to and from Pakistan
- Pakistan visa fee
- Rescue and high-altitude travel insurance (mandatory)
- Personal climbing gear and clothing
- High-altitude porters, supplementary oxygen and masks (available on request)
- Fixed-rope and route fees charged on the mountain
- Summit bonus and tips for staff
- Extra nights or costs caused by flight cancellations, landslides or early return
- Anything not listed under "Included"
Moments from the Trail
Why Choose the Gasherbrum I Expedition?
The Gasherbrum I Expedition suits climbers with previous 8,000 m or high 7,000 m experience. The Japanese Couloir is steeper and more technical than the route on Gasherbrum II, and the icefall below Camp 1 needs care and good timing.
Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II share a base camp, so strong teams sometimes attempt both peaks in one season. For a first 8,000 m peak, Gasherbrum II or Broad Peak is usually a better choice.
Before you travel, read our Pakistan visa guide and our advice on travel insurance; helicopter rescue cover is mandatory. Browse all our mountain expeditions in Pakistan.
Plan the rest of your trip
Good to Know
Experience
You should have previous 8,000 m or high 7,000 m experience and be comfortable on steep snow, ice and fixed ropes.
Acclimatisation
We acclimatise with rotations to Camp 2 and Camp 3, often shared with Gasherbrum II climbers, before the summit push.
Permits & Royalty
Every expedition needs a climbing permit from the Gilgit-Baltistan government, a peak royalty fee and, for most peaks, a liaison officer. Our team handles the application, briefing and debriefing in Islamabad or Skardu.
When to Go
June to August is the Gasherbrum climbing season, with the most stable weather usually in July. Read our guide to the best time to visit Pakistan.
Reserve Your Place on the Expedition
Tell us your experience, your plans and your preferred season, and our team will send you a full logistics package and quote for Gasherbrum I.
